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Western Kentucky
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| Lexington |
Western Kentucky is the sprawling region between I-65 and Kentucky Lake. It's a diverse region, with large prosperous farms, the Western Kentucky Coal Fields, the Ohio River, and a hill country of forests, lakes, shallow rivers and state park resorts. It includes the river towns of Owensboro and Henderson, the coal center of Madisonville, and the Old South town of Hopkinsville. In between are a dozen small towns and lots of wide open space. Most people speed right through here on the Western Kentucky Parkway en route to Kentucky Lake, but this is an interesting place to stop and explore. There are riverboats to ride, giant coal shovels to see (as at right; notice the bus dwarfed at bottom), trails to hike, lakes and streams to fish, and historical sites to visit. Both Jefferson Davis and Abraham Lincoln were born here, meaning presidents of both the Union and the Confederacy had common roots. John James Audubon did his pioneering bird researchand painting here, and you can visit the park commemorating him and his work. There are other great parks here, with lakes, lodges, trails and history to see. Actors like Warren Oates (Powderly), singers like The Everly Brothers (Central City) and authors like Robert Penn Warren (Guthrie) were born and raised here. The big cattle ranches and corn and soybean farms have long been one of the nation's top food suppliers, but since 2000 much of the corn and soybean crops have been diverted to local ethanol factories near Henderson. Western Kentucky does not contain a lot of restaurants, but it does contain some good ones, a few dating from the mid 1800s. Travellers can eat quite well here. |
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Any discussion of Western Kentucky restaurants must begin with the Doe Run Inn in Brandenburg. Built by Abraham Lincoln's father and brother, this grist mill, tavern and inn is one of the oldest continuously operating businesses in the state. It's also ranked as one of seven Signature Restaurants by the Kentucky Tourism Department. You could spend the night in one of the 11 rooms or in the log cabin. At one point this was a popular spa, with people coming from Louisville, Lexington, Cincinnati and Bowling Green to take of the healing sulfur waters bubbling from springs along the hillside. The spa's closed, but the food is great. They specialize in historic Kentucky cuisine : Fried Chicken, Meatloaf, Cat Fish, Corn Pudding, Hot Brown, Homemade Biscuits, Sweet Potato Casserole. Among the appetizers, you MUST try the Country Ham Balls, which they've served here for two centuries, rolling cured ham and fresh ground sausage into meat balls and simmering them in brown sugar. The Hot Roast Beef Sandwich is a 1950s classic, and the Chicken Livers in cream gravy is a great interpretation of this down home dish. If you're at all a Country Ham fan, you'll love theirs : salt cured, cast iron cooked, in rich red eye gravy. |
| Whistle Stop is barely within the region, being just two miles west of I-65. This little place right on the railroad track in Glendale is nationally known. The usual strategy is to combine an afternoon of antique hunting and Christmas gift shopping with lunch at the restaurant, since the whole main street has been redeveloped as a boutique shopping center. As for the food, for almost 40 years the Whistle Stop has specialized in serving Southern Heritage meals prepared from scratch in their own kitchen. It begins with the appetizers : either Okra, Dill Pickles or Fried Green Tomatoes. Then you MUST try a cup of Bean, Broccoli Cheese, or French Onion Soup. There are five salads, of which we like the Mandarin Orange. Among the entrees, the Baked Whitefish, Roast Beef, Catfish, Country Fried Steak and Country Ham are all good, but the star of the show, the one they're famous for, is the Meat Loaf. You really should try it. The beverage list includes spiced tea, buttermilk, pink lemonade and a great cup of coffee. They're famous for desserts, too, but we can't list them since they keep changing. | ![]() |
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Tony York's is the other restaurant in Glendale. It's the best restaurant within an hour of Bowling Green and one of Kentucky's Top 10. It's in the old 1883 depot. It burned to the ground in 1931 and 2008, so even though it's been rebuilt each time to match the original, this is no longer a historic building. But the food is definitely worth the drive. The menu keeps rotating, but on Saturdays you can get the $10 lunch special, an array of German Jager Schnitzel, Spinach Lasagna, Mixed Greens and Soup, usually a tomato bisque. Tony prepares his lasagna quesadilla style, as six stuffed triangles, which lends a more delicate flavor and texture. Other items are Classic Kentucky : Fried Green Tomatoes, Chicken Livers In Milk Gravy, Cream of Spinach Soup, Reuben on Rye, Ginger Chicken, Hot Brown and Sorghum Glazed Pork Loin. Or you can try the Shrimp/Scallop Pizza. The House Salad includes candied apples, mixed greens, roast peppers, feta, sugared pecans and citrus balsamic. The dinner menu adds Shrimp & Cheese Grits, Seafood Bisque, Ribeye, Lobster Tails, Grouper Diablo, Country Ham, Veal Picatta, Chicken Cordon Bleu and several other seafood, chicken and meat entrees. Walk ups can get a lunch table, but you are advised to make reservations for dinner (270-369-6000) , as people drive in from Lexington, Louisville, Nashville and Indianapolis. |
| Shady Cliff Resort is on Lake Malone on the Logan - Muhlenberg County line. You get to eat an early dinner while looking out over the lake and surrounding hills. This is an especially beautiful trip in Spring or Fall. Among their appetizers, we like the Blooming Onion and Fried Pickles. The Carolina Shrimp Pecan Salad is a great way to start a meal. Their signature entrees are their Catfish Fiddlers and various Southern fish. But the Smoked Pork Chop and Country Ham are close seconds. You need to split your desserts and pass around. Somebody has to order the Sawdust Pie, somebody the Peanut Butter Pie and somebody else the Boat Sinker. There's also a dinner cruise on their specially equipped boat. You cruise the entire length of Lake Malone and back while eating basically the same food served at the restaurant. This is the only dinner cruise in the Western Kentucky region. | ![]() |
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Mammoth Cave Lodge is run by a national corporation that bids for a cluster of lodges at a dozen parks (Isle Royale, Shenandoah, etc.). The menu is standard at all of them, but since this is the only one in Kentucky, that doesn't matter. There are actually two eateries here : The Crystal Coffee Shop and the Travertine Restaurant. The Coffee Shop serves mainly fast food, although it's better than average at burgers and fries. But the Travertine is what you drive out for, and you may want to do so, because this 1960 lodge is about to be replaced with a newer, Western style lodge with a new restaurant. The one there now has a limited but very good menu. Their signature items are their Southern Fried Chicken, Rainbow Trout, Biscuits, Cherry Preserves, and very good Coffee with unlimited refills. Other popular items are Catfish, Country Fried Steak, Ribeye and Pork Chops. The best of the desserts are their Pies, which change seasonally. The drive into the park is especially scenic in the Fall when leaves are in full color. This is really one of the best restaurants in the area, as long as you can overlook the limited menu and limited hours. They close early each evening, so this has to be a day trip. |
| The main reason BG foilk drive to Russellville to eat is The Cattle Pen, located on Armory Drive (as you come into town turn north on Breathitt, which becomes Armory). Although it got off to a rocky start in 2008, service at this steak house has improved and it's pulling customers in from across the region. The reason is their steaks. Owner Steven Kerr uses locally grown, certified Angus Beef steaks. The cattle are grass fed and get no growth hormone injections or steroids. They're not frozen and shipped long distances so preservatives are not necessary. True steak conneisseurs can tell the difference in flavor and texture. They offer Sirloin, Ribeye, T-bone, and Filet in two sizes. Sides include Baked Potato, Broccoli, Rice Pilaf, Mashed Potatoes, Fries, Steamed Vegetables, Cole Slaw, the Salad Bar and Soup of the Day. They do offer chicken and seafood entrees, including Catfish grilled or fried and Salmon grilled, but so far those have not equalled their steaks. Customers complain the service is slow, but most of that is due to the kitchen taking its time on the steaks. Their Bully Burger, Western Philly Burger and Ribeye Sandwich are also worth the stop. | ![]() |
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Even before the Doe Run Inn there was Wolf's Tavern in Henderson. This beloved Green Street landmark has been the best restaurant in the region since 1870. It is most famous for its Bean Soup, Kansas City Strip, Bourbon Braised Steak and Kentucky Hot Brown, but it does a very good job with Catfish and Tilapia. The Prime Rib Sandwich, Baby Back Ribs and Chicken BBQ are local favorites. They don't always have the Yellowtail Flounder but when it's their daily special it is definitely worth ordering. Wolf's closed back in 2009 and reopened in 2010. Not only has the quality been upheld, it's actually better. While it was closed the interior was "refreshed," so it now has a 21st Century look with a big flat screen TV for watching UK games, but they've kept the historic woodwork, layout and bar. Wolf's also now offers a Sunday brunch which is very good. This is a two century community hangout so expect to hear lots of good conversation and meet the locals. If you like a fine Bourbon, they've got the best selection in Western Kentucky. |
| If you live in the area or are here late in the week, check out Mrs. Janey's House in Sacramento. Mrs. Janey was a prim and proper schoolteacher for 50 years. When she died her two nieces turned her home into a gift shop and tea house. They only open for lunch, and only on Friday and Saturday. They stage theme, character and mystery lunches once a month. But regular lunches are also worth a visit. They use real china, silver and napkins. Lemonade Tea, Strawberry Soup and Strawberry Scones are three items you won't find anywhere else. Then you get to Spinach Stuffed Pork Loin, Asparagus Tomato Salad, and Roast Fingerling, Red & Russett Potatoes. The nieces wrap their green beans in bacon coils. The menu changes. Sometimes you're served Cheddar Cheese Scones, Creole Chicken, Raspberry Hot Tea and Wild Rice & Artichoke Salad. Or Pork With Blue Cheese Gravy, Broccoli Slaw, Rosemary Roast Potatos and Bacon Wrapped Chicken Breast. Desserts are legendary. Dress appropriately. 270-736-2821 Reservations Required. | ![]() |
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Western Kentucky is mostly Scotch Irish. It is not a great place for ethnic restaurants. If you want Italian food, your best bet is Defabio's Casapela in Madisonville. It's not New York or Boston, and service can be spotty, depending on which night and how crowded, but the food is good, certainly better than you would expect. The restaurant itself is very classy and intimate. Peter and Lauren Defabio opened here in 1995 and daughter Sarah graduated from Sulliven University's Culinary Institute in Louisville, so they've had two decades to refine the menu. It's not an extensive menu, in keeping with the 21st century style of fewer entries done very well. But all meals come with a large Salad (leaf lettuce, grape tomatoes, black olives, marinated onion, shredded carrot, garbanzo beans, peperoncini peppers and a vinaigrette) and small loaves of freshly made bread. There are seven main dishes : three fish, two meat, two poultry. We particularly like the Tuna Florentine with applewood bacon, spinach, gorgonzola and pine nuts, but the Chicken Marsala, Piccata and Parmigiana are very, very good. Their Spaghetti is a generous serving with a fine meat sauce, ground beef, chopped tomatoes, onions and peppers. The Manicotti is one of their highlights, stuffed with creamy ricotta and herb filling and topped with chukny marinara and mozzarella. The key dessert is Cannoli, filled with ricotta and maraschino cherries. The wine list is short, but does include several international selections. Most locals consider this the classiest restaurant in Madisonville, so on a Friday or Saturday night it tends to fill up. You might want to go early and beat the rush. |
| Sharecroppers is the only Soul Food restaurant in Kentucky. Their claim is they cook just like their slave ancestors did : everything is raised or hunted in their backyard and prepared in their own kitchen, and you can walk around back and see for yourself. The homemade Sourdough Bread is good, but their strength is in the Sides : Okra, Fried Green Tomatoes, Collards, Chitlins, Hog Jowls, Pickled Pigs Feet, Green Beans, Sweet Potatoes, Black Eyed Peas, Hoppinjohn, Fried Apples, Kale, Turnip Greens, Spinach, Squash, Mashed Potatoes & Gravy, and Vidalia Onions. Choice of beverages is Sassafras Tea (hot or iced), Chicory Coffee, Cider, Homemade Root Beer, or Dandelion or Watermelon Wine. There's one Salad, which consists of everything picked in the backyard that day : eight kinds of Lettuce, Spinach, Mustard, Dandelion Greens, Basil, Parsley, Thyme and Rosemary. There's Kitchen Sink Soup (leftovers tossed into a constantly simmering Dutch Oven). Entrees include Soft Fried Chicken, Squirrel Rabbit Groundhog Stew, Venison, Catfish, Paddlefish, and Backyard Pie (a mix of most of their sides baked in an earthen pot). Dessert is hand cranked Ice Cream. They bring the oaken bucket and you crank it at the table, then ladle it out. | ![]() |
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The Wood Shed is Hopkinsville's contribution to the world of Barbeque. It's a down to earth place with seating for 80 and lunch and dinner crowds of twice that many, so expect to wait for a table. Once seated, you start with a bowl of Burgoo and a slice of Cornbread. Since Gabe's closed in Owensboro, this is the best Burgoo in Kentucky, except for what they serve at Keeneland and Churchill Downs when racing is in session. (For out of staters, Burgoo is a stew of pork, vegetables and whatever extras the chef uses as his signature. BBQ outlets usually use ingredients from their BBQ process. This concoction is slow simmered, preferably in a cast iron pot.) Another of their signature items is their BBQ Mutton Sandwich, with Slaw. This is a great lunch item, but the serious eating is the full scale BBQ for dinner. You can get Pork, Ribs, Chicken or Mutton. If anybody in your group wants something different, they also serve up a fine Catfish, Pork Chop, Liver & Onions, Dumplings, Stuffed Green Pepper, Meat Loaf, Country Fried Steak, Salisbury Steak and Pepper Steak on various days of the week. There's a full page of sides, which include Corn on the Cob, Potato Salad, Green Beans, Sweet Potatoes, Mac & Cheese, Butter Beans, Turnip Greens, Black Eyed Peas, and Hominy. There's Chili in season, and on special occasions Beef Stew. Located on the west side of town on Route 80, the Wood Shed closes at 8 p.m. |
Ferrell's is a classic hamburger joint. There's no menu. They just fix hamburgers. There's a counter with a few seats and the lady at the grille fixes your burger while you watch. You don't have a lot of choices : cheese, onions, lettuce, tomato, mustard, ketchup. The place has been at the same Main Street location in downtown Hopkinsville, a block South of Route 80, since 1929. The little old lady behind the counter is Mrs. Ferrell, 89. She may have been there from the start, although the original owner, David Ferrell, has died. This place is a Hopkinsville icon. It has its own webcam, facebook page, and cult of loyal fans who stop by daily or whenever they're in town. It will probably be the smallest restaurant you've ever been in. The Health Department has issues with it. They complain that Mrs. Ferrell uses the same hands to handle money, unpack buns and roll the patties. None of this fazes the customers, who also ignore the recent price increases, which Mrs. Ferrell says were necessary because the electric bill went up. Whether you'll like the burgers or not depends on your taste. Mrs. Ferrell peppers them. Some people complain it makes them "hot." Mrs. Ferrell says it makes them "lively." Apparently most Hopkinsville burger fans like theirs lively. |
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| Lexington |
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